“我只是想看看,”我对那些重定向路易斯湖的交通的强制性年轻女性说。“我保证我不会停车。”她摇了摇头,并不是要萌发。

“Go five kilometres back along the freeway and park, and you can catch a free shuttle into town,” she rattled off by rote, clearly having repeated those instructions all day. I tried lying and told here that I had named my younger daughter Louise after the town, but it didn’t work. She did another headshake and pointed south. I scratched Lake Louise from my mental itinerary and headed west instead towards a little town called Field, which of course was also booked out. I finally found a motel in Golden, on the other side of Yoho National Park. I do not know if this park is named after a local yodeler, but it’s very pretty anyway.

Golden is not, especially, but I was so glad to get a bed that I really didn’t mind. I stayed in an ordinary motel called Mary’s, which had one major advantage: it’s right next door to the Whitetooth Brewing Company, one of the dozens of craft breweries I found on my travels.

Nelson looks kind of hokey, but it’s all genuine and nice. Except for the panhandlers.

The first of these was in Nelson, my initial overnight stop after crossing the border from the US at a small Washington State town called Danville. Even the short ride through Castlegar and Salmo was memorable, not least for the ticket I got just outside Ymir for failing to stop at a stop sign.

The very nice highway patrolman kept telling me to not worry about paying the fine because I was from Australia. He was suitably impressed when I told him that I’d rather clean up after myself, but he still booked me. Be warned; the office that collects fines has no internet address listed on the ticket. You need to pay by post, which is an absolute pain when you leave it till you get back home to Oz as I did.

aargh!打破另一个法律!

尼尔森是一个很好的城镇。它有一些我在波特兰发现的氛围,在俄勒冈州的边境 - 有点嬉皮生活徘徊在这里,树木衬里狭窄的街道上有几本书商店和酒吧以及一系列工艺啤酒厂。我住在一家旅馆的私人房间,冒险酒店,还设有一个楼下的工人,提供 - 你猜到了它 - 当地新利18苹果工艺酿造。不幸的是,街上的嬉皮精神也延伸到潘安安。如果我有任何备用改变,它就不会持续一个块,但我没有把任何加拿大钱从任何无处不在的ATM中拉出来。

Unlike US currency, Canadian money is polymer like our own cash, and is in fact printed right here in Oz. Interesting factoid, eh. No?

One does wonder what kind of drugs they sell in Kaslo.

The morning dawned bright and sunny, as did all of my mornings in Canada. I was ready for bad weather with my new Draggin Jeans Oilskins pants and a proven waterproof Ixon jacket; but as so often, just having the gear stopped the rain. But I’m sure you have noticed that yourself.

Like Canadians themselves, the weather for the rest of the ride proved mild and pleasant.

But don’t think that Canadians can’t be tough. Somewhere on a road by one of the wonderful lakes, I struck roadworks. There was a queue of vehicles, waiting to get the go-ahead while the industrious machinery did something or other to the road or its environs. I did what motorcyclists everywhere in the world do, except in Canada as it turns out: I slipped along the right-hand side of the traffic on the shoulder of the road. When I reached the front, the lollipop bloke made some kind of gesture which I must admit puzzled me, but which I chose to interpret as an invitation to proceed. It turned out to have been nothing of the kind when I reached the other end of the roadworks. The lollipop bloke there waved me over with a, this time, unmistakable gesture.

我拉过来,他开悟了我,这对加拿大摩托车手没有跳队的事实,他们也没有忽视从棒棒糖丛中的方向停下来接受舌头抨击。我现在拿到了两倍的强度,因为我犯了两个违规行为。整件事如此奇怪,我实际上向他展示了我的许可证,当他要求它时。洛莱普·伯克斯在哪里有权要求看到您的许可证?在加拿大,显然。

Would you book this man for some kind of minor infraction? If you were Canadian, I mean.

他用手机拍下了许可证,并警告我,我将收到山脉(大概)或义义棒人们的国际秩序,要求赔偿一定数量的加拿大元。我在精神上辩论了我是否应该虐待他或指出他,我们是我们澳大利亚人打印加拿大钱,但决定要么适得其反。他已经变成了伐木工人模式的正义愤怒,我想逃脱。

I never did receive a note from the Mounties or anyone else, and I do hope I will be allowed into Canada again. Maybe even to visit Lake Louise.

(Phots The Bear. Thanks to MotoQuest for the Suzuki V Strom that made this story possible)

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