照片：Zac KuryLyk

虽然扎克关于拉布拉多的摘录，但他在今年春天早些时候在春天前往新斯科舍省的普罗顿岛的故事，他是他的第一个赛季摩托车。通过事物的声音，等待几周越来越聪明才能击中道路。

***

Rain in my visor, along with a mix of run-off and muck spewed from the tires of the transport truck in front of me. The DR650 handling turning twitchy with all the weight on the back. A mostly unfamiliar, twisty road, great in the dry but sketchy in this slippery fog. The creeping cold creeping back into my core.

Maybe I should have postponed this trip another week.

The date was May 22, and I was finally back on Cape Breton.

***

为什么回到布雷顿披风？未完成的业务，这就是为什么。

The island off the northeast of Nova Scotia has some of the best street riding in Atlantic Canada, but every time I’ve been there, I’ve either been on a dirt bike and unable to really enjoy the street sections, or I’ve been on a street bike and unable to enjoy the dirt roads.

这一次，我正在理论上拍了双重运动，理论上应该给我两个世界。

这次旅行开始前一天，在我家的圣约翰，新不伦瑞克。我在午餐路上北方，通过苏克斯，蒙克顿，萨克维尔一路超越它，直到我击中了西维尔出口。

I hate the four-lane highway, and I especially hate it when I’m riding my 650. But on that day, it was the best choice as I was short on time. The endless driving rain would have sucked the fun out of all the back road routes, anyway.

在韦斯特维尔，我遇到了丹尼尔罗斯，又名Cabot Trail骑自行车的人。Daniel的一位当地商人在其他事情上，销售商品在Cabot Trail周围主题，通过Cape Breton的西北部的着名的二级公路。我欠他一个重大忙，并说我会为他提供一些东西。当我包装时，我会留下后架的空间，但由于体重，处理仍然非常粗略。当我在Canso Makitway前往Cape Breton之前的时候滚入Cove Motel时，我很高兴能够脱离脚踏车，进入浴缸，在那里我躺了大约45分钟，试图把寒冷赶出我的骨头。我习惯了寒冷的天气骑行，但在高速公路上漫长的一天结合突然泄漏的装备真的已经给了我。

***

The next day, I kicked open the motel room door to see no rain, yet. The low-hanging cloud cover over the island just across the strait was scenic, but I knew it’d be a soggy start to the day. Thankfully, my gear had dried.

不幸的是，正如淡季的那样，汽车旅馆的用餐室在禁止的时间内，当我想早餐时关闭。我选择只需在其他地方寻找食物。骑自行车的额外重量，我知道骑行会不愉快，我只是想过它。在这一点上，自上一餐以来近24小时，但我只是想去。

The Island’s main highway up the middle, Rt. 105, was dry, if uninspiring, but I could see dirty weather ahead. At my only stop, for gas and a coffee in Baddeck, I didn’t see a single other motorcyclist, at a spot where there’d be constant two-wheel traffic on a nice day. The sloppy weather started when I exited the highway at the Gaelic College just outside St. Anns. This twisty back road is considered by many to be the “real” start of the Cabot Trail. Though it doesn’t have the elevation changes or switchbacks of later sections, it proved to be quite a challenge at this point. I was basically unable to see, and the bike wouldn’t do what I wanted it to. And of course, the cold Just. Wouldn’t. Go. away.

最糟糕的部分是我实际上有一个加热的夹克和加热的夹具，但怀疑我的DR的充电系统不会长时间运行它们。每隔几分钟，我会在夹克上打开夹克，让握把爆破高。This was enough to get me to the Coastal Pub and Restaurant, where I was able to drop off Daniel’s package and shovel enough food into my face to beat off hypothermia (a highly recommended stop, by the way, not just because it’s great food, but because it’s the only outfit selling Daniel’s Cabot Trail Biker T-shirts).

(Lunch thought: there’s nothing more comforting during a cold day’s ride, than a stop with a mug of hot coffee to warm your hands).

I knew my night’s accommodations were close by, and given my physical state, figured I’d just check in early and dry out. But as I left the restaurant, the clouds cleared, and I thought, “Hey! The sun will dry my gear out! Time to hit the road!” And so, instead of heading south and calling it quits on the day, I headed north. It was time to visit Meat Cove.

***

北方北方的北方的小册子小径的这一条腿是前几英里的风景，道路沿着悬崖的边缘切割。角落相当彻底地灭绝，但观点与大西洋加拿大的观点一样好，并且有许多抛出照片停止。

Going this direction means you’re riding the Cabot Trail counter-clockwise, and as you head inland from the Neils Harbour turn-off, the road isn’t as great. Trees dominate the scenery, and the pavement straightens out. But soon enough, you’re at Cape North, where you can get gas and turn off the main road shortly afterwards, heading towards Meat Cove.

30公里的肉类小海湾的道路是曲折，僻静的和景区。这是每个摩托车司机都希望从招舱路径上裹着半小时的套餐。我骑了几栋房屋，但在我遇到了湾劳伦斯之前，没有看到真正的人口迹象。

The boats were all tied up in this tiny fishing town, with a monster swell driving the surf right into the harbour. I snapped a few photos, and left. As scenic as it is, I had places I wanted to be.

Shortly outside Bay St. Lawrence, the road turned to dirt. The rest of the way to Meat Cove, I encountered no traffic. I didn’t see anyone at the few shacks along the way. The views were pretty, but nobody was there to take them in. Meat Cove itself, at the end of the road, was deserted, except for a car of tourists hobbling around with cameras.

谁住在这里？他们如何把食物放在桌子上？没有任何可见行业的任何类型。有一个露营地，但没有人经营它。相同的是百彩箱房子。我把自行车跑到了海滩上，抬头看着雾的山丘，想知道我是否遇到过霍比特山顶，害怕每个人。我向海上看着海上颤抖着，在这里的所有尸体上都遭受了沉默的思想，在斯科舍省最北端的北方的岩石上。

But the sun came back out again on the ride back to the main road, and my mood lifted again. The corners were more fun now that I’d dried out and warmed up.

当我敢于疯狂地击中了Cape Smokey的传奇下坡交换，然后滚入了我的夜晚的挖掘，跳舞的驼鹿咖啡馆。我把机舱的热量搞砸了，卸下了我的奉献，并坐在客舱的窗户上睡着了，只有在我眼中有一个灿烂的满月。醒来的原因更糟糕。