在萨拉热窝一个星期前抵达,我只打算向北为波斯尼亚拉力赛做好准备之前住上几天。最后我再呆下去,因为萨拉热窝超出了所有人的预期,也因为我无法找到我的自行车后轮胎。Senad Hasanovic,当地波斯尼亚骑手,慷慨地来到我的帮助。

波黑骑士:在旅行从萨拉热窝到符拉迪沃斯托克ADV骑士

sdr_vivid

原来Senad,所有者著名的Pub in Sarajevo(简称,酒吧),刚刚从对面土耳其,格鲁吉亚,中亚,蒙古和俄罗斯进行为期两个月的旅程对他的BMW GS 1200回来。不过jetlagged(Senad运海参崴自行车回家,并到日本进行短暂访问后飞回),Senad已经计划另一次旅行到阿拉斯加和可能,南美洲。喝着咖啡波黑能够起死回生的人在酒吧,我们聊起了摩托车旅行,什么样子的车程从萨拉热窝到符拉迪沃斯托克。

波黑骑士:在旅行从萨拉热窝到符拉迪沃斯托克ADV骑士

Senad’s route

-Senad,你的第一辆自行车,你是怎么最终会在这个大的旅行?

一个50cc的摩托车!当时,它只是被运输的廉价手段,但坦率地说,我喜欢这东西这么多,我其实是骑着克罗地亚和背部。我一直在购买越来越大板车,最终有850艾普瑞利亚结束了,然后过渡到摩托车。这是大约18年前。

我走遍了欧洲 - 挪威,英国,希腊,瑞士......在某些时候,虽然,欧洲开始显得太拥挤,太熟悉了,所以我开始研究路线,俄罗斯和蒙古。

波黑骑士:在旅行从萨拉热窝到符拉迪沃斯托克ADV骑士

- 为什么做你一个人去?

这真的很难找人谁可以采取2-3个月了,人有工作,事业,它只是没有什么人能做到的,尤其是在短期内。我很幸运,有我不在的时候谁可以照顾企业的伙伴。

我确实犹豫了一下,不过,后来,因为我研究,我想乘坐的路线,我碰到Kinga Tanajewska的博客,On Her Bike。她是谁给了我最后冲刺的一个;我想,如果她能在它单独去的话,肯定我能到符拉迪沃斯托克我自己了。我发现吨有用的信息在她的博客,甚至使用相同的家伙,尤里,船从符拉迪沃斯托克回到欧洲我的自行车。

当我走过,我贴了很多,也因为人们回到家里真的很感激,他们告诉我,这是像他们与我同行。我想放一个短片中,甚至一本书在一起只是为了向其他人显示这是可以实现的。

Border between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan

- 什么是此行最难忘的部分?

当然,帕米尔高原,我觉得我是在另一个星球上。大自然就是这么令人blowingly美丽那里,它很难形容。吉尔吉斯斯坦和塔吉克斯坦是绝对的亮点。

波黑骑士:在旅行从萨拉热窝到符拉迪沃斯托克ADV骑士

在俄罗斯的阿尔泰山脉是惊人的,一样,那么,当然,西伯利亚 - 只是那它是如此遥远和如此巨大的事实。你刚才没有看到,在欧洲,在这里,一切都座无虚席,还有世界各地的人们。在蒙古和俄罗斯,你有这些令人难以置信的,广阔的开放空间和它的东西脱俗。蒙古是一个有点棘手,我是因为轨道有时真的是我的重仓自行车挑战,因为你专注于骑这么多,你不必去欣赏你在哪里的时候这是一个耻辱。我真的很喜欢俄罗斯,俄罗斯人都只是最好的!

波黑骑士:在旅行从萨拉热窝到符拉迪沃斯托克ADV骑士

- 什么是在旅途中最具挑战性?

我想在蒙古恶劣路面居多。有在哈萨克斯坦一个粗略的部分,前路有这些巨大的卡车道路工程惹得疯狂数量的灰尘后仅道路工程,和我有一个轮胎瘪了。现在我有工具,我,但我不使用它们非常好,我不是一个机械师,通常,我只是有我的自行车在宝马店,这就是它的服务。之前我从来没有改变轮胎,而现在我却在一个平坦的尘土飞扬的,粗略哈公路上。我试着将它但它只持续了一些ten kilometers.Luckily, I’d just bought a pair of new tires that I was carrying, to be changed at my next destination.I enlisted the help of some local teenagers who were just hanging around;one of them went into the village and got me some tire irons, and then some other guy helped me change the tire.I felt very accomplished!I realized later that I’d put the tire in the wrong direction and had it re-mounted in the next city, but I was so, so happy that I managed to change the tire on the side of the road.I got to the hotel past 1 am that night, I think that was easily one of the tougher days on the trip.

波黑骑士:在旅行从萨拉热窝到符拉迪沃斯托克ADV骑士

Other than a flat tire, I never had any bike issues at all.The GS always felt very reliable and I didn’t have any breakdowns.

-The fact that you weren’t mechanically minded didn’t stop you from going?

You know, if you start thinking about all the things you don’t have or don’t know, you’ll never leave.I don’t know how to fix a motorcycle, but I have the tools, so even if I don’t know how to use them, I can find somebody who does.If you start thinking about all the “what ifs”, it can get out of hand quickly.I carried a Garmin InReach satellite tracker with me, but that’s it.

波黑骑士:在旅行从萨拉热窝到符拉迪沃斯托克ADV骑士

-Did you camp a lot along the way?

Not once.Funny, I bought a very expensive tent, sleeping bag, and sleeping pad kit, and I never even opened that bag once.For one thing, I didn’t really see many wild camping spots along the way that I’d actually enjoy staying at, and for another, with my heavy GS, I didn’t feel like going off main roads or tracks into the bush to seek out good places to camp.On a lighter enduro bike, sure, but on the overloaded GS, I just felt it wasn’t the best idea.Surprisingly, it was actually pretty easy to find accommodation everywhere along my route, including Siberia.I’d book a hotel in advance using Booking.com, arrive in town, park the bike, jump in the shower, and go explore.I simply didn’t want the hassle of arriving somewhere, then spending an hour or so just riding about looking for a place to stay.It was much easier to book in advance.I only had limited time for this trip and I wanted to use it to see things, not to worry about accommodation.

波黑骑士:在旅行从萨拉热窝到符拉迪沃斯托克ADV骑士

-If you were to do the same trip again, what would you do differently?

Leave a bunch of stuff at home!I’d definitely leave the camping gear, probably half of my clothes, and the drone.It’s cumbersome and heavy and you can’t use it in some countries anyway.I would keep my blender and my coffee pot and thermos, though.People smile when they hear I carry a blender with me but I love making these big breakfast smoothies, and I usually make one for the road, too – it’s a great source of energy and nutrition when there are no snacks available.And it’s better for you than RedBull.Same with coffee, I just have to have my coffee and I usually make some for the road and carry it in a thermos.Some folks love going out to restaurants when they travel;I love finding a beautiful spot somewhere on the side of the road and just enjoy the view sipping my coffee.

波黑骑士:在旅行从萨拉热窝到符拉迪沃斯托克ADV骑士

-Tell me a little about Bosnia.I’ve seen some TET riders here, but do you generally see many foreigners traveling in Bosnia?

Yeah, I think now, there are more and more riders exploring the Balkans.I’m sure the stereotype that Bosnia is unsafe still lingers, but in reality, the unrest is well in the past and Bosnia now is a very safe and easy country to travel.Land mines are not an issue, either.There still might be some active land mines in the mountains but you will never come across one on the road or off-road track or trail, that just doesn’t happen.Bosnia is open to travelers and we’ve got some really cool roads and places.

-What are some must-see places in Bosnia for motorcycle travelers?

Bosnia is kind of perfect for adventure riders because we’ve got so many mountains, the roads are beautiful and we’ve got so many awesome off-road tracks, too.You’ll see wild horses in the mountains, gorgeous rivers and streams, nature here is among the most pristine in Europe.Mostar, Bihac, Kupres – definitely add them to your route.And when you get to Sarajevo, be sure to visitThe Pub– beer’s on me!

波黑骑士:在旅行从萨拉热窝到符拉迪沃斯托克ADV骑士

Images:The Bosnian Rider

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