Restoring a neglected R1150GS

Hey folks, I want to start a new thread as Im going to need all the wisdom I can get to put this bike back on the road and hopefully drive many thousand kilometers on it.

Bought this as a winter project, it was left standing outside facing the elements for 4-5 years. Never started.

My first ultimate issue is cleaning the tank. Bike was left standing with 10l of fuel and the old tank lining has turned into sun-dried tomato and the amount of rust was mind boggling.







I have started playing with acid and got some good results.


Since handling 20+ liters of acid to fill up the tank seems a bit much for me, does anyone have good experience with tank cleaning and sealing kits? Anyone had this problem of failed GS 1100/1150 tank lining? How did you go about it?

Cheers!

Cheers!

剥落或脱皮储罐涂料层有点有限公司mmon after a couple of decades, more so when the tank is left partly empty or out in the elements. Yours may be the worst that I've seen, but others have surely seen worse. All sorts of chemical can be used to strip the failed coating. Vinegar at the low, environmentally friendly end, and aggressive paint strippers at the not-so-environmentally-friendly end. Putting a handful of clean screws into the tank, and then shaking them around vigorously will help whatever chemical solution you select to better attack the liner.

对于一个经常骑自行车,更不rtantly, stored well with a full fuel tank, the liner is not all that necessary. It may be nice to have, but a full tank can't rust enough to matter for most riders.

I'd start by completely disassembling that tank. Some of the liner you'd be able to scrap out via the hole for the fuel plate. That plate is probably as badly rusted as the filler neck was, so the plate will need full attention anyway. I'd go ahead and replace everything that attaches to the plate, including the pump, filters (2), hoses, etc. Be very careful with the tiny nylock nuts that secure the fuel plate to the tank. The posts those nuts attach to are somewhat fragile. Snap one of those off and you'll have a new, un-fun, and unnecessary project to deal with. Treat them gingerly as the torque spec. is very low single digits, and any corrosion or rust makes removing them even more difficult.

Bottom line: I'd start with a complete tank refresh. That presumes the tank doesn't have holes in it. After the tank was dealt with, I'd move downward. Start next on the air filter, intakes & throttle bodies. End at the FD. The wrapping around much of the wiring loom is sure to be shot too. That'll need attention to hopefully prevent the risk of shorts.

It's a good project. Please post pics!

Great project ! Worst case scenario might be to invest in a good used tank if needs be ?

I have experience etching rust from fuel tanks. The hard part is preventing flash rust after draining the etching medium and cleaning the compound off the bare metal.
Then the bare metal will begin to rust in MINUTES.
The deal is how to get all the etch compound out quickly and then apply the coating material before rust sets in. Maybe a gallon of alcohol, as alcohol absorbs water [a limited amount].
AND THEN get the liner material in quickly and coat all surfaces and DON'T ALLOW THE LINER MATERIAL TO POOL while curing, because the pooled liner material will not cure properly, then will gradually dissolve, travelling into the pump and injectors.
Trying to coat the insides with one liter or less is impossible as there is so much surface area that one liter will theoretically do it [with a brush], but just try to get a small remaining amount onto a surface that YOU CAN'T SEE.
And then, if you do think you have succeeded, the liner is likely to peel off after the first tankful of fuel because the surface was not properly prepared.
If you can find someone set up for this operation, PAY THEM.
They have GALLONS [4L/Gall] OF ETCH, ALCOHOL, AND SEALER because they have done it before.
You will need to make up plates to cover the holes.
I have never succeeded in lining a tank.
If you can etch the metal bare and get some oil/fuel mixture in it to flush the remaining etch compound out WHILE COATING the bare metal with oil, call it good.

Your english is very good.

It is quite common for these tanks to delaminate on the inside. Removes as much as you can, a vinegar soak often does it mostly. Use a light chain and shake it around, then fill with some diesel and swish it around, then nothing. Many do not reseal and it is not an issue. Of course a new filter, pump and lines are in order.

It wouldn’t be a crazy idea to convert to an external fuel filter at this juncture. Less worry about future that way after a tank mess like that. Directions on this site. Fluids are going to be an issue. Brake fluid, clutch fluid don’t do well a setting long periods. Sexiest model of GS

I tie the tank filled with diesel, lead shoot and some stainless steel nuts onto a concrete mixer and let it run for some hours. Change the position, angel every hour.

Thanks for your answers, great to receive the friendly support! I want to make this as DIY as I can and learn the bike inside out plus save $$.

Everything inside the tank is super rusty, heres a look at the pump/filter plate.



Since Im used to riding bikes that dont have electronics telling me how much fuel I have left - Ive decided not to rescue the fuel float and delete the wires just leaving the plug to keep the whole shut. Ordered new aftermarket pump (I think from audi 80) and filter. Now trying to source the bag filter that goes onto the pump. Made a plate to shut the side door out of plywood and an old car tube acting as a seal and now experimenting with acid and soda electrolysis. Soda method is great for eating out rust the friendly way, but it doesn't have the teeth for the old lining, so I think I will let the good old toilet cleaner do the job first. Since I dont have the tank lining available at hands reach (por15 needs to be shipped from US and Im in Lithuania) I will probably use the advice of Lewis andThe Fabricator, sealing the tank with enough fuel as Im somewhat skeptical of being able to execute the sealing properly, its a massive tank!

Thanks for the advise of moving the fuel filter outside of the tankArbolmano, I think its a great idea.

And yeah, most of the cable covers are flaking away at the touch. Just wrap them with electrical tape?

Thanks guys!

don't use electrical tape. it will becoem a gooey mess and you will want to shoot your self in your nuts next time you work on your bike electrics...

I am using this:
Tueascallk 6 Rolls 300 Feet Black High Temperature Resistant Insulating Fiber...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1PXVM4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_KSXWT1W05SXADFFJCQK6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1via@amazon

AND few sizes of these
CrocSee 25ft - 1/4 inch Braided Cable Management Sleeve Cord Protector - Self...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FJ345HL/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_DPGYFTGBGPBE8W8BG171?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1via@amazon

Agree completely that electrical tape becomes a mess once the adhesive melts in the heat. Split loom wire sheathing in various sizes is also an easier product to work with given the tight spaces involved.

The other major system to have a look at will be your brake lines and the ABS. If it has the original rubber lines, those will need to be removed and converted to modern braided ones before you ride it. The OEM lines deteriorate and become a problem for both safety and the function of the ABS. Great looking project. Looking forward to following your progress.

Great advice on the tape, I was really hesitant to using the electrical tape for the gooey aftertaste.

Yes, changing the brake lines is on my list. My ABS is not integral, so Im gonna keep it if it works.

Link to reputable vendor for some of the tank internals on the chance that you haven't already purchased the same...https://nushings.com/#/moreproduct

I would suggest to get a solid used tank with innards, its nice to rehab parts but this is not a place to take that stand.
NOTE all your going to do now is temp fate and possibly take out the rest of the expensive fuel system,
at that point the cost of a good tank will be surpassed by the needed replacement of the injectors and FPR and lines, plus a good tank

That might actually not be rust. Rather it is the tank liner that has let go. Scrape it all out and flush as best you can. Your tank will look much better inside and the filter will catch everything that could damage injectors, that's why you have a filter. There is no reason to reseal the tank. It will be fine.

The ABS 2 system on the earlier 1150s is relatively easy to service. Even if it won't work initially, don't give up on it too quickly as it is really a pretty simple device.

I'm in the camp unless the tank leaks and a replacement is not readily avaliable or prohibitively expensive no sealer. To me sealers are a last resort. Even good brands can be problematic if you do not follow directions exactly and conditions are perfect you'll have a bigger mess on you hand than when you started.

Since the tank is taking a long soda bath Ive treated front forks with new oil and seals. It was about time.

looks like you are having fun. Wish I had the room to take on a rebuild project. looks like new fork seals are in order.

It is amazing how closely your project is mirroring my 2001 refurbish. I didn't have the tank to deal with since the previous owner had already done it. Otherwise, the steps all look the same so far. What year is your bike and how many miles ... err kilometers does it have?