Exhaust Cam Replacement 2016GSA

Hi.

I acquired a new set of the updated exhaust cams for my GSA. I have a few questions:

1. Should I use assembly lube on the bearing surfaces or is it adequate to coat them with motor oil prior to assembly?

2. Are there any concerns with the break-in of the new cams' bearing surfaces with the old surfaces?

3. I only plan to replace the exhaust cams, hex bolts and washer; 11 31 8 564 541, 11 31 8 564 542, 07 11 9 907 510, 07 11 9 907 514 and 11 12 8 535 758. Are there other parts that should be replaced with the cams?

Thank you!

no answers, following with interest!

You can just use oil as that is what you use when you remove the cage and remove the cams to replace valve shims.

When installing new cams ALWAYS use assembly lube. Motor oil is not sufficient for the new surface on the cams, and the assembly lube will enable proper mating of the new & old surfaces.

+100

Under $10 at decent auto parts stores...

How and why were they updated?

Presume you're asking about the volume of gear oil for the FD.

The how was by BMW directive.

The why followed a bunch of seal failures attributed to too much gear oil.

No, I think the question was about why the exhaust cams needed replacement.

I was asking about the “updated” exhaust cams.

When were they updated?

This seems like the kinda of thing that should be warranty and have a warranty extension period.

Oops, I was typing in the wrong thread.

This thread discusses they why they were updated(presumably). The decompression mechanism is deployed at low engine speed.
I'm not sure when they were updated.

I'm replacing mine for two reasons:
1. I'm really driven by obsessing over really little things that are usually quite frivolous in nature. Especially as I get older.
2. I have experienced the same symptoms as discussed in the linked thread.

In my case, the tap or clap noise only occurs if these conditions are met:

1. engine thoroughly warmed up
2. ambient temperature is very hot. >90F
3. engine at idle
4. momentary stumble in engine rpm at idle

The noise is only audible one time at the moment the stumble occurs. It seems to be on the right side.
This scenario repeats it self at no particular frequency. Sometimes a few seconds and other times tens of seconds apart.
As soon as the engine speed is greater than idle, there is no re-occurrence of the noise.

As the temperatures cooled down here, I haven't even heard the noise at all.
And for the record, all of my cams are in very good condition. There is no abnormal wear associated with the soft cam issue with just over 11,000 miles on the odometer.

Got it, I am guilty of actively ignoring any noises these tractors make so no idea whether my 16’ GSA is afflicted with this feature. I will file this as a “need to know basis” and continue to wear earplugs.

Again there is no need to use assembly lube on the cams. When you replace shims you pull the cam cage and cams to get to the shim buckets.

There is NO ONE using assembly lube to put those cams back in the cage. I mean no one! I have to look but I am sure it is not called out in the BMW DVD either but will check to be sure. There just is no need whatsoever to do so.

I just checked the DVD there is no mention of using ANY lubricant in replacing the cam shafts. Not even motor oil.

Again after 20 or so removals of cams in wetheads I have always just wiped them clean with a lint free rag and then wipe them with motor oil.

Well hopefully you do not have any mating! That is the problem the cam lobe is mating with the cam lobe follower.

It is not called out and you do not use assembly lube in swapping cams or doing valve adjustments on a R 1200 GS/GSA/RT motor.

The cam lobes are supposed to be harder then anything it comes in contact with and that is the issue there is a batch out there that is not.

If you were pressing bearing and such yes, but these float in a oil bath in that cage there is no bearing just a flat running surface with a oil channel in it.

You & I answered the OP's question differently, it's up to him to decide how he re-assembles his engine. That's as far as I'm going.

hmm.

Ithinkeither would be fine as long as the surfaces aren't dry during initial start up.

我不确定,简单搜索网络后,那t assembly lube is necessary in my case; I swap cams and go ride.
It seems the value of assembly lube is in its ability to not drain away as the assembled engine sits for an extended period of time.
Whereas oil would seep out of the bearing area and leave it dry for the initial start up.

Assembly lube vs. camshaft lube:
I haven't read much on the differences except that molybdenum based cam lubes shouldn't be used in an engine with a wet clutch.
There is a possibility that the moly can cause problems with the clutch and it can also clog oil filters.

My current thought (65% committed) is to just use motor oil to lube the new cams, then go ride.

Thanks to everyone's input so far!

Here is the DVD procedure. No assembly lube required. Of course your motorcycle you can do what you like. Everyone can do their work how they prefer. I like to stick with the information that the manufacturer provides. The Haynes manual makes no mention of any lube either.

https://lafsbmw.s3.amazonaws.com/cam.docx

Great info. Thanks!
My previously stated commitment level has risen to about 85%.